Thimble Pleasures ~ A full-service quilt shop

There are so many different types of thread available!  How do you choose which one is right for your project?  After reading Part 1 of this series on Thread, start with the reason you will be using this thread and go from there.

Generally, a 20 – 30 wt thread is used for a heavy thread used for decorative stitches. 28 wt. or 30 wt. thread is used for in the bobbin for decorative work. 40wt thread is a quilting thread and 50 wt is a piecing thread.  50wt and 60wt can be used in the bobbin and is also good for appliqué. This is only a rough guideline, however, rules are made to be broken! (I think that is where “art quilting” starts). Experiment with what works best for you. 

To help you with your selection, read the end of the thread spool.  Generally, you will find information about:

• The manufacturer and brand of the thread
• The color number
• Its weight and the number of plies (strands) that are twisted together. This is usually referred to by a number that looks like a fraction.  For example, if you see the number 60/2 that means that the thread is a 60 weight 2 ply thread.  The higher the first number, the finer the thread.
• The fiber content
• Whether or not the thread is mercerized
• and maybe even the country of origin.

What is mercerized thread?  Simply put, mercerized cotton thread has been put through a series of processes causing the thread to swell, become round and straighten out. Any fuzz is singed off.  This increases the luster of the thread as well as improves water and dye absorption.  Since fine, long stapled fibers respond best to mercerization, it is usually those types of cotton (Sea Island, Egyptian, Pima) that are used.  Most threads currently manufactured are mercerized. 

When using your thread on a machine, be sure to put the top part of the spool up.  This isn’t always as obvious as you might think.  To determine which part of the spool is the top, hold the spool horizontally by the top and bottom.  Unroll about a foot of the thread.  If the thread hangs freely, you unrolled it from the top.  If it twists back on itself, you unrolled it from the bottom.

Again, don’t use old thread you find laying around just to use it up.  Give it the yank test.  If you can break it by yanking it off the spool, it will break in your machine.  Toss it out.  Do not save it for a craft project, put it in the garbage can and don’t look back.  

Remember that I told you that 5 spools of thread for a dollar is not a bargin?  Well, a friend showed me what happened to her quilt when she used old inexpensive thread……….

She made this quilt for a gift and when she washed it before wrapping it, the thread literally dissolved!  The seams opened up!  The only thing holding the quilt blocks together was the quilting……  All that work, gone……  She is trying to stitch the seams together to salvage the quillt, but it won’t be a gift.  My friend learned a hard lesson about  choosing thread.  Don’t let this happen to you!

The type of thread you sew with should be selected for color, compatibility with your fabric’s fiber content, and the type of sewing project. There are many, many types of threads and knowing what to use can be confusing.

Regardless of the project you will be working on, it is very important to purchase a good quality thread. “5 spools of thread for a $1.00″ is not a bargain! The fibers of bargain thread split easily while you’re sewing and can cause knotting of the thread, breakage, and build-up of lint in the bobbin area and along the thread line from the spool to the needle. When looking at thread numbers (e.g. weight), the higher the number, the finer the thread; the median (half are smaller, half are bigger) size is 50 weight.

Let’s look at thread more closely……

Quilting & general sewing:

Cotton: A medium thickness (50 or “B”) is available in a wide range of colors and is used for sewing on light and medium weight cottons, rayons, and linens. Cotton thread is usually mercerized, a finishing process that makes it smooth and lustrous. Always choose cotton thread for your cotton fabric quilts, the quilt will last longer – as polyester thread is slightly acidic and will cause the fabric to deteriorate over time. Change your needle size, based on your thread weight. For 50-weight thread, use a 75/11 quilting needle; for 40-weight thread, choose a 90/14 quilting needle. When buying thread for your project, select thread one shade darker than the fabric, so it blends harmoniously. If your fabric is a plaid or multi- color print, select the color that is most dominant.

Silk: Silk thread is a fine (60 or A) strong thread for sewing on silk and wool. Its fineness makes it ideal for basting all fabric types, as it does not leave holes from stitching or imprints after pressing. Because of its elasticity, silk is also suitable for sewing knits. Silk thread is recommended for tailoring because it can be molded along with the fabric in shaped areas.

Metallic – There are two different kinds of metallic thread. One is actually a combination of metal and plastic. It’s very shiny and the colors are intense. The other kind is made from aluminum wrapped around a core thread. It’s easier to use than the first type, but both have a tendency to build up static electricity, so they should be unwound from their spools (and rewound, if you like) before you use them. If you’d like to use metallic thread for machine sewing or quilting check the label carefully to make sure it’s suitable for use in a machine.

Monofilament/Transparent Nylon – Colorless and very strong, this thread is a good choice when you need invisibility, especially for machine applique. I typically use monofilament for my top thread and cotton thread for the bobbin thread. You will need a smaller needle with monofilament.

Rayon: Rayon thread is suitable only for machine embroidery; it’s not strong enough for regular sewing or quilting.

Hand applique: Again, use a cotton thread with cotton fabric. Select a color that blends with your motif, so you stitches don’t show. Some stitchiners recommend silk thread (60weight) in a neutral color for all projects, if yur stitches are small enough to be “invisible”.

More on choosing threads next week!

Barbara

As a continuation of my going “techno” with my quilting (e.g. new laptop, online classes, blog, Facebook), Santa Chris gave me EQ6 for Christmas and I have been taking lessons with Karen West at Thimble Pleasures. All I can say is….WOW! This software is great and has endless possibilities. Using basic computer skills, you can design your own quilt blocks and quilts! Your designs can be pieced or appliqued. You can select color schemes and import fabric collections to test their appearance in your designs! You can make awesome quilt labels! You can resize existing projects without having to “do the math”!! The program also calculates your fabric needs……. Do I have your attention, quilters?!

Loading the software on your computer couldn’t be easier and the User’s Manual has step by step lessons to familiarize you with the program and its tools. Use this Manual! It’s one of the few software manuals that I have actually read and found helpful. If you need more coaching, take Karen’s class. It was fun, helpful, and low stress.

EQ6 has six libraries: Block, Fabric, Layout, Embroidery, Photos, and Thread. You can import selections from these libraries into your sketchbook to build your quilt design. I found this very helpful because I would have an idea for a quilt in my head and could easily work with existing blocks to build the design. Then you can audition your color choices to see how they work in the design. No more bad color choices!! You can also scan in your own fabric and see how it works in your design. I love this feature, because you can see where colors and patterns work – or don’t work, as the case may be. I can also see what happens if I add more borders or delete borders, without wasting fabric.  The two quilt designs below are identical, just the color has changed!

You know I love quilt labels, EQ6 has opened up a whole new world of label design!  Check this one out!  My first! Many more to come!

Now, I have to warn you, using EQ6 requires balance, otherwise, you won’t sew all the designs you could possible create! But, give it a try, and don’t be worried about your computer skills, if you can “point and click”, you can use this software. P.S. Julie carries it in the store and there are lots of additional books to read to help you along.

By: Diane Donovan (Reprinted from the Thimble Pleasures Newsletter)

Mea Culpa, mea culpa. I know the last time I did a “how to” article I promised you a thread explanation. Then, the April newsletter came out and there was no room for a “how to” article. Now I’m pushing thread aside, again! I’m going to talk about batting.”But why?”, you ask.

It is probably the least understood and discussed step in the quilting process. Batting deserves more attention then we sometimes give it. No one batting is perfect for every project.

Harriet Hargrave, author of Heirloom Machine Quilting by C&T Publishing, has a great list of considerations for you to think about when choosing batting. I have seen them printed over and over again in various publications so I am not alone in thinking they might be worth thinking about!

“Things you should ask yourself when choosing a batt for a particular quilt:

• Do I want natural, synthetic, or a blended fiber batt?
• Do I want it thin or thick?
• Do I want it flat or fluffy?
• Do I want to hand quilt it or machine quilt it?
• How close do I want to quilt this quilt?
• Do I need this quilt for warmth, or do I want a cooler quilt-is it for summer, spring, fall, or winter temperatures?
• Is the quilt going to be washed a lot or just for show?
• Is the quilt going to hang on the wall, or lay on a bed?
• Do I need the quilt to look antique, or contemporary-should it be smooth or pucker?”

Battings have certainly come a long way since the first cotton batting was manufactured by Stearns & Foster in 1846. Now they come in many lofts (this refers to weight and thickness), sizes, and are manufactured using natural, synthetic and blended fibers. There are even fusible varieties (not my favorite) that are designed to eliminate the need for pinning or basting prior to quilting.

There are two common methods for manufacturing battings – bonding and needle punching. Bonded battings use a bonding agent to adhere or “bond” the fibers together, hence the name. Some battings are bonded only on the surface and others are completely bonded. The 100% bonded batts are said to “beard” less. The needle punch method is just like it sounds – the fibers are poked with numerous needles which causes them to tangle together and become tightly interwoven. Needle punched battings are more firm and heavier than bonded battings because of the increased density.

If you need more information about particular brands of batting, most of the commercial sites have useful information regarding weight, content and how closely it needs to be quilted. The companies listed below are just two of the brands of batting we carry. Many of the companies fabricate natural, synthetic, and blended battings.

Polyester batting is usually the least expensive and is readily available in different weights and sizes. It is easy to wash and creates a lighter weight quilt than cotton or wool but because it is a synthetic fiber, it does not breathe and is not as comfortable as natural battings for year round use. Another common problem with polyester battings is bearding where stray fibers work their way to the surface. The thicker, fluffier polyester battings are difficult to machine quilt mainly because of the bulk. They work well if you will be tying the quilt and give the quilt a more fluffy look similar to comforters. Not a favorite of mine. In fact, so much not a favorite of mine-we don’t carry it.

Cotton batting is heavier than polyester even though it is much thinner and is warmer than polyester. These work well for machine quilting. The Quilter’s Dream-Request is the lowest loft. It works very nicely for hand quilting, but long arm quilters are not as fond of it because it is such a low loft and can become distorted when loaded on their quilting frames. Machine quilters tend to like the Quilter’s Dream- Select or the Warm and Natural, this is a slightly thicker loft. Depending on the manufacturer, it is sometimes necessary to prewash the batt before use, so be sure to read the label on the packaging. You do not have to pre-wash any of the batts we sell. Also depending on the manufacturer, cotton batting may not be as stable as polyester so to maintain the integrity of the batting, some cotton batts must be closely quilted – approximately two inches between lines. We don’t sell these either. Dream Cotton and W&N can be quilted from eight to twelve inches apart. The manufacturers also state their battings can be tied. I’ve never tried it. I have read if you try to tie a quilt sandwiched with cotton batting, you will end up with a misshapen quilt because the batting will break apart and become lumpy. I’ve had no experience tying a quilt with a cotton batt. So for once in my life-I have no opinion! Shocked, aren’t you?

Wool battings are loved by hand quilters because they are easy to quilt. Wool can be more expensive than cotton. Some wool also has the tendency to beard and has to be covered with a layer of cheesecloth. Quilters Dream Wool makes a washable wool batting. They have scoured and super washed domestic and Merino wool. It’s been blended, carded, crosslapped and thermally bonded. Per the manufacturer-it is machine washable/dryable with no shrinkage. It is one of my new favorites for that 1/3″loft you might be looking for. It is soft and puffy and machine quilters, I know, have no problem with it. 

Silk batting, as you would expect, is expensive but it works wonderfully for quilted garments. The thing to watch out for is bearding because the fibers are so fine that they tend to work their way through many fabrics. The best solution is to use it in silk garment construction. Hobbs Tuscany Silkbonded batting is made from imported silk filaments with the addition of 10% polyester. It is then carded and resin bonded to help retard bearding (fiber migration) and allowing the batting to be handled like a blanket. It can be quilted up to 4″ apart and hand washed in tepid water and lay out to dry flat. It will likely shrink approximately 5%. Because of silk’s natural ability to breath, it is an excellent choice for airy, light weight quilts and coverlets. The Tuscany Silk batting quilts magnificently by hand or machine and is a superb filling material for embroidery. Celeste used this in her daughter’s dorm quilt.  She seemed really delighted with it.

Blends  come in cotton/polyester, wool/polyester, bamboo/silk/tencel* blends as well. A very common and popular blend is 70%cotton and 30% polyester.

Quilters Dream Orient Batting is a luxurious blend of velvety Bamboo, luscious silk, strong silky Tencel®* and soft stable Cotton. Dream Orient’s natural environmentally friendly fibers are carded, crosslapped and finely needlepunched. The process allows the qualities of softness, strength, warmth and breathability to shine. Machine wash and dry with cool water/cool dryer – shrinkage approximately 3%. You can stitch up to 8″ apart.

The blended batts are more stable and less apt to shift because of the added polyester but they retain the favorable qualities of the all natural batts.

Ok, to sum-up batting is a pereference. It is also, project specific. If we can help we will. Otherwise it’s up to you.

Hopefully, some questions have been answered. I’ve based much of my information on years of trying the different types available on the market, Internet research and classes with teachers who have spoken extensively on batting, Ami Simms (hand quilting classes), Diane Gaudinsky and Harriet Hargrave (machine quilting classes) just to ‘name drop’ a few!. These were just a few of the teachers speaking about batting in depth. There is much more information out there, the internet is a great tool to increase our knowledge. The books published by our more experienced quilters are also a great source of information. Sometimes, you just need to try things and come to your own conclusions. If all else fails, just come on in to the shop and ask. We’ld love to see you!

*Botanic Tencel® – is made from environmentally friendly eucalyptus wood pulp derived from sustainable tree farms. Tenciel® is exceptionally strong, resilient and resistant to wrinkles, yet so soft it is often referred to as imitation silk.

By: Stephanie Pennington-Grant

Barbara asked me to write a blog entry on free motion quilting.  I don’t really have anything to say that hasn’t been said before, but here are some things I have learned about free motion quilting:

Start Small

• Practice samples smaller than 12 inches square are good to start with. You can always bind them to make trivets, super-size potholders, or throw them away without guilt!
• Small practice pieces don’t need to be basted; the batting will make the fabric stick together. I keep squares by my sewing machine, ready to go, and always use one to warm up before I start on a quilt.  Sometimes when I just ‘need to sew something’, I will use one of the squares, and just doodle away.
• You can use scraps, which will alleviate some of the fear in trying a new technique on a “real” quilt.

Doodling

• It’s not so easy to just “doodle.” It takes practice. So doodle on napkins. Doodle in journals. Get your hands and your mind comfortable with the concept of “no set pattern.”
• When first teaching your hands and your eyes to meander, you may want to have a set pattern that you follow — either traced onto the fabric or on a piece of stabilizer or paper that lies on top. It will become more natural.  Follow the designs in the fabric, when you select the backing fabric, does it have a pattern on it you might like to follow as a design element
• Remember when you first learned how to write, you moved the pencil over the paper.  Try practicing holding the pencil still and moving the paper, this is what FMQ is!
• Your goal is to be able to move in all directions.

Machine Basics

• Start each new project with a fresh needle. I like Micro-tex Sharps and Titanium needles.  If you are quilting along nicely and suddenly notice skipped stitches, it may be time for a new needle.  A dull needle also makes a popping sound as it goes through the fabric layers.  Use the correct needle for the thread (metallic needle for metallic thread).
• Is the machine clean, some threads will cause major lint and will need to be cleaned frequently; other threads (Aurifil) leave very little lint.
• I usually start with six full bobbins (There is no rhyme or reason to the number, just a habit), that way, I don’t need to stop and wind bobbins so often.
• I give my machine a drop of oil every other bobbin change.  This may be overkill, but my machine doesn’t seem to mind, I don’t get oil on fabric, and Gail doesn’t yell at me to clean and oil more often.
• Foot – I like an open toe foot (Bernina #24), or the open BSR (Bernina Stitch Regulator) foot.  With the open toe, I believe I have more visibility to see where I am going.  With free-motion quilting, remember to look slightly ahead, to where you are going, not at what the needle is doing (it can take care of itself!).
• Remember that you do not need to adjust stitch length, you control that with the coordination of your hands (how quickly you move the fabric under the needle) and foot (how fast the motor of the sewing machine goes).  I know, easier said than done, but it gets easier with practice.  If you are using a BSR, the BSR will match machine speed with the speed of moving the fabric under the needle to regulate the stitch length.
• You will only hear me say ‘drop the feedogs’ if your machine requires it.  Some people feel that with the feedogs up, the motion helps them move with a little more control, others are adamant they do better when they are down.  I say, try both and do what works for you!  I recently noticed that when I did a design in a very tight area, I needed to drop the feedogs, and when I did a larger area, I had them up.

Relax

• I know. Easier said than done, but breathing is very important in this process!  Put on that favorite music, TV show, movie, or just let your mind wander.  I like wine and the TV myself!

PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE

• No one who does free-motion quilting had a masterpiece (something you wanted to show someone) the first time.  Stop beating up on yourself, practice and you will get better.  Stop and figure out what you are unhappy with and work on that small element for a time.
• Start out small, fluff and stuff the quilt under the harp of the machine, remember you are only working on 6” at a time (How do we eat an elephant?  One bite at a time!).
• Expect inconsistent stitches early on, they will get better as you learn to coordinate your hands and the feet (or get a BSR, but even that requires practice!)

Ergonomics

• FMQ can be hard on your body if you don’t follow good posture techniques.
• When sitting at your machine, will the quilt be supported by a large surface without drag on it? Is the machine bed flat in a cabinet, or do you have a Plexiglas extension?.  If it is not supported, consider dragging over the ironing board or a folding table next to your machine, making it level with the height of the table and using it to drape the quilt on so it is not dragging and you don’t have to fight with the weight of the quilt.
• When sitting at your machine, are your elbows at a comfortable angle, usually level with the table? Most of us sit too low for our machine height. If you can’t alter the chair or table, make sure you stop about every 20-30 minutes and stretch.  Your body will thank you for it!

Good luck don’t get discouraged, we all had to start somewhere.  Save the first piece you complete.  Pull it back out after a year (in which you have practiced a lot!) and be proud of what you have accomplished!